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Gruen Doctor's

Gruen was a premier watch manufacturer and was, perhaps, one of the companies that you wanted to emulate if you were in the business of making wristwatches. Everything they put their hand to was first-rate. They were the inventors of the "Curvex," a revolutionary, curved watch from the late 1930s. Gruen held the patent on the curved movement, but they also made fine timepieces that contained flat movements.

This Gruen is their Doctor's Watch that has the same movement that Rolex used in their Doctor's Watch.  Gruen had a factory in Switzerland in conjunction with Rolex where this watch came to life way back in 1938.  This factory made movements for both brands.  This tells you something about their quality and strict standards.  This 10k yellow gold-filled case is in great condition showing only the most minor handling wear. It measures 21 mm in width (not including the crown), by 44 mm from lug to lug, by 9 mm thick (including the crystal)... a nice size for a vintage watch! This is a very handsome Gruen that looks fabulous. The seventeen jewel, Swiss movement is in fantastic condition and our head watchmaker has it setting, winding, and keeping time just as it did when new, over 85 years ago.

It has a spectacular matte, white dial with contrasting gold Arabic Numerals that give this watch great eye appeal and makes the time easy to read. Also, notice the enlarged seconds bit at the 6 o'clock position: it was so the doctor could take a pulse easily. We have had a few of these watches in our 44 years in the business, but not one as nice as this one. Don't miss it! Our one-year warranty for parts and labor, will give you the peace of mind that this wonderful Gruen wristwatch will perform the job for you while it looks great on your wrist!

Elgin "BUSHIPS" Military

During WW2, there was a great need for tool watches that met the rigors of harsh environments, both on land and in water. To meet this need the U.S. Navy's Bureau of Ships (BUSHIPS) opened up a contract bidding process that would require a particular manufacturer to produce a "dive" watch.  There were three manufacturers that answered the call: Elgin, Bulova, and Hamilton. These three were already producing the A-11 watches that were employed by the military. Now the conundrum was how to make it waterproof. They cleverly met this challenge by fusing the bezel and crystal to the case and by adding a screw-down "cap" to cover the crown. This not only protected the crown, but it also sealed it against water. This became known as the "Canteen".  It was used by the UDT teams during WW2 and by Navy personnel in the Korean and Vietnam wars. It became the first ever "Diver's Watch" that was mass produced. This became the foundation of all future dive watches.

The one we have on offer here is in wonderful condition and is running like the proverbial top. The stainless steel case measures 32 mm in diameter (not including the crown), by 40 mm from lug to lug, by 15 mm thick (including the crystal).  It houses the original 17 jewel Elgin movement that is in great condition. The manufacturers were not allow to have prominent markings on the dials so they blacked out the company name and the watch designation. If you hold the watch to the light at just the right angle you can read "ELGIN" just below the 12 and "USN BUSHIPS" just above the 6.

The case back also has the "USN BUSHIPS" marking.  Once the case back is removed you will see an inner pressure dome that protects from water ingress.  You will also see how pristine the movement is. This watch was destined for the Korean war but bears none of the wear, or damage, we normally see on these watches.  It is almost like it has been preserved in like new condition for your wrist.  We have only one so don't miss it.  Our one year warranty for parts and labor will allow you to buy with confidence.

Gruen Curvex "General"

This Gruen is one of the most desirable "Curvexes" ever made--second only to the "Majesty". The two similar models, called the "Majesty" and "The General", are respectively 52mm and 50 or 48 mm long -- the longest "Curvexes" in Gruen's history. Some call them the "Bone to Bone" watches as they stretch from one wrist bone to the other.

This watch, "The General", at 50 mm long, was very popular with movie stars of the 1930's, and is dramatic in its high-arching curve and graceful bowed, tonneau case. This particular watch has all of the dramatic curve of the "Majesty" (just 2 mm shorter) but with the gently curved case sides that make it look even more striking.  It measures 22 mm wide (not including the crown), by 50 mm lug to lug, by 9 mm thick at its central point (including the crystal).

The original dial is dramatic, displaying ornate applied gold Arabic numerals on what was once a silver-colored background, but has now turned to a mellow gold color with patina. For the purists out there, this watch has great character! It shows a seconds bit above the 6 o'clock position that echoes the case shape, above which is written the word "Precision". The 14k yellow gold-filled case is in excellent condition and has no personalization to detract. The hands are "lunette" style and add a bit of panache to the entire piece.

The spotless movement displays 17 jewels and is in excellent running condition for a watch made circa 1940. It is winding, setting, and keeping time just as it should. Like all of our watches, it comes with a full one year warranty.

Elgin "Black Knight" with Original Box

Elgin produced watches in Elgin, Illinois (a Chicago suburb), for over 100 years. They were the largest and most prolific of the American manufacturers and the "Lord Elgin" was their premiere product. It was produced in 19, 21, and 23 jewels. This particular Elgin "Black Knight" is very cool watch in more ways than one. First and foremost, the 21 jewel movement is a thing of mechanical beauty. Second, the "fish scale" black dial is an unusual textural element that adds a lot of interest, highlighted by the original conical crystal. Third, the stylized numerals are very unusual, and fourth, the curved hooded lugs are a very handsome finishing touch! 

We also have the original box which is a thing of joy all by itself. It is lined with burgundy velvet and satin. It still even has the original "Black Knight" label and "What you should know about your Elgin" pamphlet to complete the set.  A rare find these days!

If you take a look at the "Zoom-In" photos you can almost see the point at the top of the crystal in the side shot.  This pointed crystal gives the watch a very futuristic look. You will also notice that there is a symbol just below the Elgin name and this means the watch is fitted with an unbreakable "Durapower" mainspring....quite a feat back in the day.  In short this is one killer wristwatch from the 1950s. 

The case is 14k yellow gold filled (as stamped on the back) and measures 28 mm in diameter by 38 mm lug to lug, by 11 mm thick (to the top of the conical crystal). This handsome timepiece is in fantastic original condition, running like the proverbial top, and just waiting for a man's wrist to adorn.  Remember all of our timepieces come with our famous one year warranty for parts and labor, so that you may buy with confidence.

Bulova Accutron "Astronaut Mark II"

This is a very useful tool watch that bears the name "Astronaut Mark II". It has a 'Two Time Zone' hand where your home time or GMT can be read on an additional white hand.  Not only do you know what time it is, but there is also a date window at the 12 o'clock position and a very prominent red sweep second hand that is centrally located. The case is stainless steel for wearing longevity and it measures 34mm in width, by 40mm lug to lug, by 12mm thick (including the crystal) and it has an original "Accutron" marked 17mm black band. What makes it even more dramatic is the red and black contrast of the dial, the silver markers, and the red date!

The "Accutron" is the world's first "tuning fork" watch, the most accurate watch of its day. The story is told that in the 1960s the American government wanted to keep this timing technology out of the hands of the Russians. So, they asked Bulova to keep it a secret a little longer since we were using this very accurate timekeeper in our space program. When you take a look at the informational pamphlet that Bulova put out to introduce this new idea to jewelers and watchmakers, it has a very space-age, cutting-edge look (for the day). In the pamphlet, it is explained that the seconds are parsed into very discrete segments by the vibrations of a small tuning fork at the heart of the movement. Bulova advertised it as the "watch that hums"! The general public was very much into innovative and stylish watches and Bulova made this very interesting "Astronaut" for space traveling men or women to strap on their wrists.  So the next time you are "over the moon" make sure you are wearing this wonderful Accutron Astronaut!  Our one year warranty for parts and labor will allow you to buy with confidence!

Tissot Bumper Automatic

It was way back in 1886 that Edmond Mathey-Tissot began making complicated pocket watches in Les Ponts-de-Martel. He became known for watches of high quality, in some of the most complicated pocket watches made at that time, especially repeaters that chime the time on demand. He also began producing highly-rated chronometers and, during the Second Boer War, was a supplier to the military and that demanded his expansion of the manufacture. It is said that a Scottish nobleman ordered 2500 watches to give to every member of his son's regiment, with officers receiving solid gold repeaters and the other enlisted men receiving silver repeaters. Wow! What a gift!

In 1914, Mathey-Tissot was represented at the Kew Observatory Competition by six Observatory Chronometers capable of split-second timing, all six being rated 'Class A' with the comment "specially good." The same year, Mathey-Tissot gained the Grand Prix at the Swiss National Exhibition. During WWI, the company supplied the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers with precision chronographs in large quantities, while General Pershing, commanding the U.S. Expeditionary Forces, chose the watch to award to members of his own staff. Both before and after WWII, the company continued to supply the U.S. Army and the Royal Navy. By 1937, the E. Mathey-Tissot & Co. was a protected trademark in the U.S.

So, as you can see, the company has an excellent pedigree and the watch we are offering here is the beneficiary of that long line of excellence. It is a wonderful stainless steel automatic from 1951 and it bears a personalization on the back that reads "Pete from Hal 1954".  If only these watches could tell us the tale of where they had been, and what they had seen. The square case measures 32 mm (not including the crown) by 32 mm, by 13 mm thick (including the crystal).  It houses a wonderful 17 jewel, automatic movement tha our head watchmaker has winding, setting, and keeping time just as it should.  The dial is a handsome silvered beauty that really makes the look of this excellent timepiece.  It has such a presence on the wrist that everyone who sees it will marvel at its appearance. It all could be yours.  Remember our one year warranty for parts and labor will allow you to buy with confidence. 

Lord Elgin "Direct Reader" Chevron

The year 1957 was a landmark year for design. This is when everything that came off the designer's drawing board was unusual and it seemed like every other product that came along was futuristic in design. Such was the Elgin "Direct Reading" Jump Hour. These were made in three different cases, although the 21 jewel Cal. 719 movement was common to them all.  

Elgin, the world's largest watch manufacturer, was on the cutting edge of innovative watch design. This was a time of exaggerated fins on automobiles and ducktail hairdos. So, Elgin designers wanted a watch that would take your imagination. They produced a series of what they called "Direct Readers". One was the rectangular shape that later became famous as "The Elvis", one was in a round dimpled case called the "Golf Ball", and this one is the round and smooth version in what you might call a "Chevron" configuration. 

The yellow gold filled case measures 32 mm in diameter (not including the crown) by 9 mm thick. The surface of the watch has a smooth finish that is very reminiscent of "Space Age" styling of the late 1950's.  It is a delight to wear and display on your wrist, and your friends will be wanting to get a closer look at how it functions.

Our head watchmaker has it winding, setting, and jumping just as it did in 1957. When you peer through the triangular window, just below the watch center, you will see a large number (the hour) with a disc of smaller numbers underneath the hour. This is the "Wandering Minutes" track that rotates to indicate the passing of the minutes. When the 60-minute mark is reached the next hour "jumps" into the window for yet another hour on display. The crucial test of the proper service for one of these watches is the sharp jumping of the hour disc when the hour changes. Ours jumps to attention just like it should. This one is quite spiffy! If you want a watch that you won't see walking up and down the street, don't miss this one. It is special! Our one year warranty for parts and labor will allow you to buy with confidence.

Movado 14k "Two Tone Tank"

      Movado is a Swiss manufacturer known for its "Museum Watch". Designed in 1947, by Bauhaus-influenced artist Nathan George Horwitt, the watch dial has a very simple design where the dial is defined by a solitary dot at 12, symbolizing the sun at high noon, but Movado also made some very nice watches that are of superior quality...this is one of those. It is a gentleman's wristwatch from the "Roaring Twenties".    Some Movado watch models have Esperanto names such as Bela ("beautiful"), Belamodo ("beautiful fashion"), Fiero ("pride"), Brila ("brilliant"), Linio ("line"), and Verto. The company's name means "movement" in Esperanto. 

      This wonderful Movado is one we have never before seen after being in business for over 42 years.  It is a Two-Tone Case in 14K yellow and white gold,  with stepped case edges.  The vertical surfaces are yellow gold and the horizontal surfaces are white gold.  This gives it a great looking contrast that just cannot be conveyed in the photos. It sports its original dial finish that has a perfect patina and a great vintage look.  The case measures 25 mm side to side (not including the crown), by 43 mm Lug to lug, by 10 mm thick (including the crystal). 

      The 15 movement is in excellent running condition and our head watchmaker has it setting, winding, and keeping time just as it did when it came from the Movado Factory way back in 1925.  This is a very special watch that could be on your wrist!  Our one year warranty, for parts and labor, will allow you to purchase it with complete confidence.  We have only one so do'nt miss it!

 

 

Hamilton "British Military"

Hamilton had military contracts with not only the American government, but also the British Ministry of Defense. In 1973, they made this wonderful Hamilton W10 for the British Army with a 17 jewel movement with a "hacking seconds" feature. This is a device that interrupts the motion of the balance wheel when you pull out the crown, thereby stopping the timekeeping ability of the watch. Once the signal is given to "synchronize your watches soldiers," everyone would push in the crown on their watches to instantly start-up at the same second so that the maneuvers could be coordinated with split-second accuracy.

The case back markings on this watch designate it as "W10-6645-99" watch made for the British Army and bearing the British Military "broad arrow" insignia.  The "523-8290" NATO code and the issue number "24263/73" are also present, indicating this watch was made in 1973, the first year that Hamilton made this model. They only continued to produce these watches through 1976, when the contract went to another brand. It is still in great condition, so it has not been used or abused since that time! The case fits the production standards for the robust steel tonneau-shaped housing measuring 36 mm in diameter (not including the crown), by 41 mm lug-to-lug, by 10 mm thick (including the crystal) with fixed spring bars and a matte finish.

We have had our head watchmaker put it in excellent running condition, so that it will be ready for your next adventure. It is fitted with a Hamilton Caliber 649 17 jewel movement, based off the ETA 2750 model featuring the hacking seconds mechanism and Incabloc shock protection. It was a real workhorse meant to stand up to the rigors of the military.

The black dial bears the Hamilton name beneath the triangle denoting the 12 o'clock position. The circled "T" beneath it indicates the use of tritium lume (although no longer glowing) and the "Broad Arrow" above the 6 indicates that it was the property of the Crown. At the very bottom "Swiss Made" indicates the origin of the movement. Make sure you notice the "gladiator style" sword hands... they give it a real warrior look. We have fitted it with a classic black NATO strap, just like the original. What's not to like here? Nothing! This handsome watch can be yours... just give us a call to reserve it for you. Our one-year warranty for parts and labor will allow you to buy with complete abandon!

Benrus "Admiral"

     Here is a great example of a really neat watch from the 1950s that has a lot going for it, and at a price that is affordable.  Benrus was a solid Swiss competitor in the American consumer market during the 1940s and 1950s. Everything they turned their hand to was affordable and performed well. They were the Chevy of Swiss wristwatches – very reliable and ubiquitous. This particular Benrus is in nice condition with the case measures 34 mm in diameter (not including the crown), by 40 mm lug to lug, by 11 mm thick (including the crystal). The case top is yellow gold-filled with a stainless steel back for wearing ease and longevity.  The "Admiral" was Dustproof, Waterproof, and Self-Winding (automatic) as is evidenced by the case back designations. This is further complimented by an interesting dial dial and the central sweep seconds hand. What a handsome timepiece. Our one-year warranty for parts and labor will allow you to buy with confidence. Our one year warranty for parts and labor will allow you to buy with complete confidence.

 

Omega "Diamond Dial"

One of our all time favorite brands here at Father Time Antiques is Omega, and this Omega is no exception.  Made circa 1964, this Solid White Gold Diamond Dial is in excellent running condition, and is a very handsome watch as well. The 17 jewel movement is running, winding, and keeping time just as it did when new. Make sure you take notice of the "Zoom-In" views where you will see the pink gold plating that Omega coated its movements with to prevent oxidation for a hundred years. This is one of their hallmarks.

The silvered dial gives it an elegant appearance when played off the high polish silver hash markers at the hours, with double diamonds at the cardinal points.  The 14K solid white gold case is in near perfect condition and bears none of the gouges that one normally sees on a watch of this age.  The case measures 28 mm wide (without the crown) by 31 mm lug to lug, by 6 mm thick (including the crystal).

The 17 jewel, manual wind movement is equally as nice and our master watchmakers have it running, winding and keeping time just as it did back in 1964.  We think that this is a classic look that Omega did so well.  If you are tired of the giant over-sized monsters that are common fare today and you want an elegant precision dress watch, then this may be the one for you. These rarely survive in this condition, so don't miss it!  All of our timepieces are covered by our famous one year warranty for parts and labor so that you may buy with confidence.

Hafner Jump Hour

"Jump Hour" watches have always drawn great interest anytime we offer one for sale. Normally they are several thousand dollars from a name brand manufacturer. Here, however, is a very nice Swiss "Jump Hour", from a little known name, for a fraction of the price.  The big advantage is that the price is a good deal lower for good quality. It has always been that the number of factories were smaller than the number of names that watches were sold under. The classic example is Tiffany. Tiffany never made any of their own watches, but they did contract with only the best manufacturers to make their watches to their high standards. This was true of many other companies that bought what we call Jeweler's Contract" watches. Once a guaranteed number of watches was purchased from a particular factory the jeweler's or distributor's name was added to the dial and/or movement. This meant that there was a good supply of original parts available. They also had the backing of the original manufacturer and their engineering expertise. This interesting example of an unusual "Jump Hour", is just such a watch with a Hafner Watch Company Swiss movement and an "M" brand on the dial.

Our head watchmaker has fully restored it to function just as it did when it arrived from the factory in Switzerland more than 50 years ago.  The silvered dial is a joy to behold and the overall configuration is great fun. The 17 jewel movement is housed in a yellow gold-filled case that measures 35 mm in diameter (not including the crown), by 42 mm lug to lug, by 12 mm thick (including the crystal). This is a watch that your friends and colleagues will want a closer look at once they see it on your wrist.  Our famous one year warranty for parts and labor will allow you to buy with confidence.  Don't miss it...we have only one!

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